Geologists
suspect that this supreme desert, that covers
most of the Namib Naukluft National Park,
is the oldest desert known to man. The older
the dune the brighter the colour from slow
iron oxidisation & a zillion tiny fragments
of garnets. These dunes refract spectacular
colours with the changing light & turn
from burnt orange through reds to deepest
mauve.
About
two-thirds of a mile (1km) away from Sossusvlei
is the Dead Vlei – a salt encrusted
dry lake named for its large dead camel thorn
trees.
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These
tell of a time when plentiful water allowed them to
grow to full height, but as the climate changed and
the water disappeared they died. Amidst this desperate
scene comes new life in the form of a few young camel
thorn trees struggling bravely to survive and on the
western slopes, some bright green !Nara melons defying
the shifting sand.
ANIMALS
& BIRDS
Apart
from infrequent rains, the flora and fauna of the
interior relies on a regular mist that rolls up to
62miles (100km) inland. All creatures make use of
this life-giving moisture and the head-standing beetle
has come up with a unique adaptation. As the fog descends
it tilts forward and droplets of moisture run down
grooves in its body to its mouth.
The Anchieta's dune lizard has an interesting
way of coping with the scorching sand, and does a
kind of thermoregulatory dance putting only two feet
down at a time and hopping from one pair of legs to
the other, using the tail as a stabiliser.
Snakes
are common in the Namib, but few of the 20 species
are ever seen. At sunset you may hear the staccato
clicking call of some elusive bird, but this is in
fact the nightly call of a male barking gecko.
There
are mammals here too and the impressive black and
taupe, spiralled-horned oryx is master of the vast
shadeless wilderness. With the conformation of a stocky
pony, he is the thoroughbred of the desert with unique
adaptations enabling him to live in this harsh environment.
The oryx can survive with a body temperature as high
as 113°F (45°C) (which is usually lethal),
because the animal cools blood to the brain by passing
it through the nostrils first. Springbok are also
able to survive for long periods without water, as
long as they can find food with a moisture content
of no less than 10%. Spotted hyenas inhabit the Namib
Naukluft Park but are rarely seen, while black-backed
jackals are more visible. Jackals eat almost anything
including rats and mice, birds, insects, reptiles,
fruits and berries and therefore survive well in almost
any terrain.
The
Sandwich Lagoon is an important wetland of pristine
beauty, which attracts in the region of 200,000 birds
to the lagoon and mudflats. Flamingoes constitute
the largest percentage of water birds here, who usually
fly inland to breed during the rainy season. The lagoon
also supports several endangered Red Data species
such as chestnutbanded plover, white pelican and blacknecked
grebe.
SEASONS
On the rare occasions when it rains, the desert responds
amazingly quickly, producing a miracle of yellow flowers,
green leaves and sprouting grasses. Ephemeral (short
lived) plants appear as if by magic and replenish
the seed bank for next year.
Rainy Season: rain usually falls
in late summer from February to April, but an 8 year
study showed that most showers in the southern Namibia
(Sossusvlei area), occurred in the months of December,
March and April with an average rainfall of 63mm per
annum. However, rainfall is erratic and unpredictable
and the high summer temperatures cause fast evaporation.
As a result the Namib is classified by international
standards as 'hyper-arid'.
Temperatures: From November through
to March the daytime temperatures rarely peak below
95°F (35°C) or drop lower than 59°F (15°C)
at night. From April to October daytime temperatures
range between a very pleasant 77°F (25°C)
to 95°F (35°C), with June, July and August
recording the lowest night-time temperatures around
41°F (5°C). Temperatures are recorded in the
shade and the air feels considerably hotter under
the scorching sun with heat radiating off the dunes.
NAMIB-NAUKLUFT
SPECIALITIES
· Walking up the largest and brightest
coloured sand dunes in the world at Sossuslvei
· Photography where a bad
picture is almost impossible
· Coming across the 'picture
postcard' oryx standing by a lone dead tree in the
undulating desert
· Flying over an endless rippling
desert in small aircraft or hot air balloon
· Walking to Dead Vlei and
the white cracked arena on which stand long-dead trees
· Appreciating the small creatures
of the desert like head-standing beetles and barking
geckos
· Water birds of Sandwich
Harbour
· Night gazing into a crystal
clear sky full of falling stars and satellites
· Immeasurable space
· Heightened self awareness
and perspective on the meanings of life
FACTS
Sandwich Lagoon is only accessible with a permit and
is difficult to get to
Sossuslvei lies within a national park which is closed
from dusk till dawn so there is no off-road or night
driving
Malaria is most unlikely to be contracted in the desert